The Doria Pamphilij Gallery is a bit of an under-the-radar spot for some epic art viewing, but if you want to be impressed with a super fancy villa that’s in really great shape in the heart of Rome, that has literally piles of art adorning every single square inch of every wall, definitely come here.

You can easily buy tickets in advance, and I usually recommend doing so, although this gallery is not as busy as most others in Rome, and is easily accessible for walk-ins. On the Saturday morning in January, 2025, when we arrived, there were very few other people here. In fact, buying a ticket at the door costs only 16 Euros, where purchasing online costs 17, so you may even be better off walking up. The gallery is open every day, and children under 12 are free to visit.

This gallery is truly impressive, and the amount of art on display here is actually quite staggering. I would recommend heading over to the Baroque Art Accessibility Consortium’s website for a “quick visit” itinerary, which will help you view some of the best paintings here, without feeling too overwhelmed. The two primary rooms to visit here, though, are the alcove that houses the portrait of Pope Innocent X by Diego Velazquez, and the gallery that houses three paintings by Caravaggio (although one is disputed). On your way through the hallways, though, don’t forget to look up and around. Not only is there gobs of art on the walls, but the walls and ceilings are gilded with gold and adorned with intricate frescoes. This place is really incredible.

The portrait of Pope Innocent X is claimed to be the best portrait of all time by the gallery, and although it is truly excellent, this is quite the claim to fame. Pope Innocent X’s birth name was Giovanni Battista Pamphilij – yes, you are standing in his family’s villa, although it was built and designed about 100 years after Pope Innocent X’s death. When you’re in this alcove, notice the detail in the portrait, including the hyper-realism of the robes and the wrinkles in the face and hands.

The Caravaggio room is the one we (obviously) spent the most time in, not only because the pieces there are beautiful, but also because they are quite different than the uber light and dark contrasting pieces that you are used to. The “Penitent Magdalene” is very bare-bones, allowing you to focus on the emotion of the painting in the moment. That said, notice the hyper-detailing in Mary’s dress and even the embroidery and ribbon on her blouse. “Rest on the Flight into Egypt” by contrast has a whole lot going on. I recommend picking up the free audio guide and listen to them discuss the symbolism in the painting. The John the Baptist painting contained in this room is disputed, and there are many arguments to be made as to whether or not it is a true Caravaggio, but it is striking nonetheless, with an almost defiant-looking John daring you to approach.

Finally, one of my favorite paintings in the gallery is a Pieta by one of Caravaggio’s rivals, Caracci. I just love the colors and contrast on this one, as well as the unusual shape. It’s a really solid composition and draws your eyes in.

There is a small bookshop in the middle of the galleries, full of all things baroque and Caravaggio, and we picked up a few goodies here. Visiting this museum will take you between 1-2 hours, depending on how long you like to linger, so definitely add this to your itinerary along with a few other points of interest nearby (like Palazzo Barberini, Trevi Fountain, or the Pantheon).